New and Underhyped
Updated: October 22, 2008
With all the hype, the multi-starred reviews, and blogosphere bloviation, a few very good New York restaurants fall between the cracks every year. Here are my current top five.
You May Have Missed Them
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Elettaria--CLOSED
Read Reviews33 W 8th St, New York, NY 10011 (map)
Former Craftbar and E.U. chef Akhtar Nawab finally got to create his own restaurant, and the result has been imaginative, well-executed fusion dishes powered by Greenmarket ingredients. The drink program is rock solid, too, and the space too cool for the strange block it's on.
Tet Restaurant
Read Reviews83 Ave A, New York, NY 10009 (map)
Having won over New York with Nam and O Mai, Steven Duong has his best restaurant yet in this Avenue A eatery, which brings a polished and accomplished traditional Vietnamese menu to an area packed with poseurs.
The Harrison
Read Reviews355 Greenwich St, New York, NY 10013 (map)
While the overall mood and room is still the same, the menu overhaul by former Gusto chef Amanda Freitag deserves a special trip downtown, if only for her amazing duck-fat fries and an English-cut lamb loin that might be the best chop around.
Cabrito
Read Reviews50 Carmine St, New York, NY 10014 (map)
Although he's not technically involved, the plump hand prints of meaty chef Zak Pelaccio are all over this project from the owner of 5 Ninth and Fatty Crab. There's fantastic pork belly tacos, the goat is stellar, and the beer is cold. Boy is it noisy, though.
Commerce
Read Reviews50 Commerce St, New York, NY 10014 (map)
Chef Harold Moore, formerly of Montrachet, has somehow managed to cram a high-powered and ambitious French-American menu into a tiny, crowded space with barely enough room for the world-class chicken for two.
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