Ja Yoon Whang

Justin Hartung

Citysearch

The Scene
When it opened in the late 90s, the garage-like space of Jeodallo looked almost futuristic. Now, with space-age noodles shops popping up like Starbucks, it seems almost quaint. A casual neighborhood crowd dines leisurely at two-tops all the way to the sushi bar in the back, and cartoon-style artwork adds splashes of color.

The Food
Sushi, teriyaki, bulgogi and bibimbap coexist peacefully on the Korean/Japanese menu. Rolls are massive, and though basics like eel avocado boast clean-enough flavors, odd combos like tuna paired with chewy octopus don't always click. Korean fare is iffier: Squid-filled pancakes are a gooey mess, and though pan-fried kimchi and pork singes tongues, oversalting ruins the fiery fun. Surprisingly, it's the least authentic creations that fare best: A raw salmon appetizer ringed with avocado and shaped into a heart may look silly, but the fish's freshness and the generous portions do exhibit some sort of love.

Hits: Once mobbed, the restaurant has cooled off enough that it's easy to get a table when you're impatient for sushi.

Misses: Dish against dish, it's the Korean side of the menu that comes up short.