Pastis

Contributor

Citysearch

The Scene
The space, fit with imported giant urinals, zinc-topped bar, large antique mirrors, mosaic floor tiles and mahogany trim, looks like it's been around forever. And like all McNally hot spots, it crackles with energy, particularly from the groups who gather to share a bite in the bar. Despite the enduring scene, the restaurant plays host to a surprising number of families. Service is breezy, yet professional.

The Food
An ideal meal here starts with lusty, cheese-encrusted onion soup or a salad of frisee and bacon capped with a soft-poached egg. It moves on to one of the city's best salads nicoise, the dependable steak frites--served with thin, perfectly salted fries--or to hearty braised dishes like beef with glazed carrots. At lunch, fish-and-chips, croque monsieur and a garlicky roast chicken are satisfying and soundly conceived.