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Citysearch

It's difficult not to fall for this tiny, soulful restaurant, set across the street from a small East Village park. The atmosphere is one of homey sophistication; decor includes a tile floor, wobbly wooden tables and a huge spray of pink flowers atop the bar. The largely female kitchen crew and service staff go about their work with pride. Chef-owner Gabrielle Hamilton works out of an open kitchen the size of a bus shelter, turning out hearty, elegant and seasonal New American cuisine. Whole roasted branzino, a well-charred rib eye steak and roast suckling pig are typical dinner entrees. The…