Hell's Kitchen

Hell's Kitchen

Owner

"Nouvelle" Mexican Done Right "Among NYC restaurants that gussy up Mexican food for Gringo foodies, Hell's Kitchen is among the best. Offering less expensive, better food and drink, and a modicum of comfort and courtesy, Hell's Kitchen is worth a little trek. Staff was unfailingly accomodating and polite. The chef has a rare deft hand with the deep frier as evidenced in the pita-like toasts offered gratis (instead of the usual crisp tortillas) with an excellent black bean dip, the surprisingly delicate duck empanada on red mole, and the banana pastry for dessert. An excellent balance of textures and flavors in the red snapper on a bed of plantains, onions and tomato, all in banana leaf - fine attention to detail in the prep. And with the excellent pairing of wines, Hell's Kitchen is a cornerstone in the neighborhood that it bears it's name from.

Contributor

Citysearch

The Scene
This is a noisy space, slickly designed but somewhat cramped and frantic. Wine-bottle chandeliers and multicolored upholstery give a faintly retro feel. On weekend nights and pre-theater, the bar writhes with humanity, indifferently supervised by the clumsy hosting staff.

The Food
It's not exactly traditional Mexican fare, but that country's flavors and techniques enliven the often excellent food here. It's hard to miss: The tuna tartare, served on mini-tostadas with mild guacamole, and the flavorful grilled salmon steak with spicy wilted greens, are outstanding. Intrigue can be found in the tamale filled with musky huitlacoche fungus topped with dark salsa and mascarpone. Beer-braised lamb shank is tender and zingy with chile flavor, and a rare duck breast in mole sauce is exceptionally tasty. Desserts run the fruity gamut, from a nice tres leches cake with preserved cherries to an overly dense--yet still great--pumpkin flan.