Fiamma

Erin Behan

Citysearch

The Scene
One of Soho's more pretentious dining rooms still manages to feel relaxed, whether in the soaring first floor, or on the amber-lit second level, which feels like a warm clubhouse. Dishes come with a recited explanation of their ingredients, and service is flawless.

The Food
Celebrated chef Fabio Trabocchi's small, daily changing menu leans Italian but borrows from the European tradition. The flavors range from luxurious, as with the quail egg-topped carpaccio, to elegantly rustic--burrata served with Manni olive oil, described by some as the "world's most expensive." Mains are divided between land and sea: Comfort trumps opulence in pasta dishes such as a seafood risotto, while pork belly (or the chef's famous suckling pig) shows Trabocchi's skill with the animal. In comparison to other dishes' strong flavors, the black cod, served with mussels and octopus, pales. Desserts, too, lose oomph: Marscapone panna cotta needs its coffee gel to sing.

Hits: The creative fare keeps you guessing, and the uncommon drink list adds an extra sparkle.

Misses: If you're used to Soho being for the young and hip, know that this spot draws an older, more refined crowd.