Nice Matin

Nice Matin

Owner

Veteran chef Andy D'Amico strikes a popular chord with a multitude of Riviera-inspired hors d'oeuvre like pissaladiere and panisses, and continues the bold, garlic-imbued theme with soupe au pistou, fennel-cured mackerel, and roast cod with ratatouille nicoise and anchoiade. In true Upper West and French Riviera fashion, warm-weather sidewalk seating abounds. Veteran chef Andy D'Amico strikes a popular chord with a multitude of Riviera-inspired hors d'oeuvre like pissaladiere and panisses, and continues the bold, garlic-imbued theme with soupe au pistou, fennel-cured mackerel, and roast cod with ratatouille nicoise and anchoiade. In true Upper West and French Riviera fashion, warm-weather sidewalk seating abounds.

Contributor

Citysearch

The Scene
Chintzy Victorian wallpaper covers one wall, psychedelic patterns decorate another and massive chandeliers--minus crystals, plus bare bulbs--hang above elevated dining platforms. Despite the dizzying decor, tableware is sleek, service is slick and the "Sex and the City"-type crowd seem happy to endure sometimes-long waits at the front bar.

The Food
Chef and co-owner Andy D'Amico interprets Nice's breezy Mediterranean cuisine with more style than sophistication, and the crowds applaud. Take the fun track with relatively inexpensive hors d'oeuvres like garlicky grilled merguez, leeks vinaigrette and rouille-doused poached mussels. Don't skip the pissaladiere--a caramelized onion Nicoise pizza with an herb-y, anchovy-olive kick. Simple, long-cooked beef daube is a beautiful thing, but fussier dishes, like stringy rabbit ravioli, and meagerly portioned, fishy roast cod, flop. The gooey Gruyere-onion burger--which inspired the name of the owners' other venture, Five Napkin Burger, in midtown--its aged beef slathered with aioli, is reason enough to return.