Matsugen

Allison Austin

Citysearch

The Scene
Even the most polite conversationalists will find their eyes wandering, as a parade of notable names makes its way past the long communal table toward the more exclusive dining room in the rear. It's clear that, from the urban-esque soundtrack--ABBA, Destiny's Child--to Richard Meier's understated, sleek interior, the place is meant to attract as many hipsters as gastronomes.

The Food
For the most part, it's solid, sometimes impressive Chinese: One can easily find better pork buns and Peking duck in Chinatown, but then you'd have to settle for dining with regular folks. Vongerichten's genius is in the details: A tart citrus twinge balances the buttery shrimp and foie gras dumplings; delicately seasoned tuna tartar is served at the absolute perfect temperature. Sauces are quite good, especially a glossy red wine and soy reduction served with beef shortribs, and a remarkably complex black bean sauce glazing the lobster. Don't save room; desserts are disappointing.