Soba Koh

Justin Hartung

Citysearch

The Scene
Just when you think you know East Village restaurants like a frat boy knows the rules for beer pong, along comes an under-the-radar gem that reawakens your neighborhood crush. The small space opts for comfort over flash, designed with various shades of wood, and the tiny bar is perfect for chatting up the sweet staff. The best seats, however, are across from the glassed-in booth, where the soba-maker works his magic.

The Food
The Japanese comfort fare tiptoes perfectly between earthiness and elan, peaking with the just-made buckwheat soba in myriad combinations. A richly complex broth anchors noodle soup served with crisp jumbo shrimp tempura, while cold soba cushions supple ground duck and tender eggplant spears. Commanding supporting acts include soba "gnocchi"--lightly fried balls toting ground chicken--buttery, miso-marinated sea bass, and for dessert, dense sesame pudding that's rich but not too sweet.

Hits: The care and quality put into the dishes is equal to restaurants that are twice as expensive.

Misses: What is it with corny jazz at otherwise wonderful Japanese restaurants?