Trestle On Tenth

Kathleen Squires

Citysearch

The Scene
Chelsea gallery types and stylish neighborhood couples gather around the rustic wood tables inside the cozy yet clamorous brick-walled room. A wood-slatted ceiling adds an Alpine touch while the walls reflect the area's art scene by doubling as an exhibit space. Those seeking a quieter ambience retreat to the back garden.

The Food
Comfort food doesn't have to be heavy according to Swiss-born chef Ralf Kuettel, who turns out a homey menu with sparingly culled flavors. Meaty frog's legs include a light touch of tarragon, for example, and a thick square of Arctic char gravlax with horseradish dill cream carries the hallmark of hearty, cleanly flavored European cuisine. Meat eaters will especially love the juicy, rosemary-embellished lamb saddle, but a too-naked pork loin could use bolder seasoning. The uncomplicated nusstorte, a shortbread crust covering caramel-drizzled walnuts, and a creme fraiche-enlightened blueberry tart show that Swiss desserts go well beyond chocolate fondue.