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An unassuming facade--a dark doorway distinguished only by tealights--gives way to an intimate space with a twinge of the Victorian. Sculptural metallic lamps lend a mod touch and soft light to tin ceilings and vampire-burgundy walls, yet the neighborhood patronage cares more about the comfort of deep-seated leather banquettes and actual elbow room, not to mention the relaxed rock soundtrack and a daily happy hour that stretches until midnight.