The E.U.

Kathleen Squires

Citysearch

The Scene
Dish racks, cookbooks, brick walls, a wood-beamed ceiling and long porcelain bar establish a homey, rustically hip ambience. The easygoing coziness extends to the staff, and the semi-open kitchen gives a peek at the professionalism behind the scenes.

The Food
The pan-European menu reads like a diplomat's dream, spanning raw bar offerings, smorgasbord-style small plates, charcuterie, sandwiches and tradition-inspired continental entrees. Plump, briny Portuguese sardines, vinegar-spiked herring and slivers of sweet beets bedding slightly bitter watercress are enchanting starters, while a house-made pretzel served with smoky bauerwurst and sharp mustard combine for a particularly transporting sandwich. Skillfully fried fish-and-chips change daily; one offering included an ocean's bounty of shrimp, hake and calamari. Desserts like a goat's milk cheesecake atop an olive fennel crisp make the E.U. an even more desirable addition to the E.V.