Gaucho Steak Co

Kathleen Squires

Citysearch

The Scene
Though one of the owners has roots in Argentina, this South American steakhouse actually originated across the river in Montclair, New Jersey. Diners are herded into the somewhat awkward, small dining room--a rustic pen adorned with knotty wood paneling, cowhide banquettes and leather tablecloths--where they're constantly prodded by servers.

The Food
Though it's tempting to start with one of seven types of empanadas, lighter grazing with a beet, green bean and whipped goat cheese salad or a fresh baby shrimp seviche best prevent killing the appetite for the cow carnage to come. Be careful not to get splattered by the sizzling platters of grass-fed Uruguayan beef, ranging from tenderloin to rib eye, cooked as requested but not as intensely flavored as promised. A freshly made chimichurri is an easy remedy, however. For dessert, try the panqueques--thin crepes stuffed with dulce de leche--before moving on to greener pastures.

Hits: Generous portions and gentle prices see to it that diners get a lot of beef for their buck.

Misses: The room can be deafening when full, and unbearably hot in the summer. There are very few options for non-meat eaters.