Harry Cipriani Restaurant

Erin Behan

Citysearch

The Scene
The prim dining room, with its wood-covered walls and a tiny four-seat bar, holds a crowd of jacketed men and effortlessly beautiful women. Regulars are greeted by name, a bevy of white-jacketed waiters scurry to-and-fro, and a table of dolled-up women sing happy birthday to an old friend--it's just another night at this highbrow "Cheers" for New York's old-money set.

The Food
For a celeb-magnet restaurant, the Italian-inspired food is reliably good and the portions are generous. Though many start with a salad, more daring options such as the light, lemon-tinged swordfish carpaccio are rightfully tempting; while a less than creamy burrata appetizer is not. Pastas shine--especially the simple plate of tagliardi verdi tossed with tomatoes or the perfectly al dente seafood-stuffed risotto--as do extremely rare and succulent lamb chops or an impressively sized branzino. Desserts follow a decadent path: A light and fluffy lemon meringue slice sits in a sinfully buttery crust.

Hits: Sceney spots often skimp on quality and quantity, and neither is true here. If you want to see how those with money live--or want to live the life--this is a good primer.

Misses: Patrons pay for the experience as much as the food, so those who don't think atmosphere is worth a $16 slice of pie or an $18 drink should look elsewhere.