Crave on 42nd

Aaron Barker

Citysearch

The Scene
The far west location of this Hell's Kitchen bistro is so removed it might as well be in Orange County, where "Top Chef" alum David Martin reportedly had his career-changing epiphany. The quasi-suburban feel extends to the space, too, with Christmas lights and pastel canvases the only real nods to decor.

The Food
Martin's dishes are best described as traded-up comfort food, with peaks including creamy, saffron-spiked lobster ravioli and a fiery Italian sausage and capicola pie. Other dishes bear an overdramatic hand: The signature black truffle mac and cheese is overpowered with oily fontina, and oversized scallops are doused in a buttery pool of vanilla bean cream. Roasted salmon suffers a cloyingly sweet sherry brandy glaze, although a crisp medley of sauteed veggies helps out somewhat. The tiny dessert list is less of a disappointment than you might expect--the food here is so rich you'll be craving sorbet.

Hits: The executive chef's regular cameos on the floor add some flair to the enterprise.

Misses: Service is pleasant enough, but can be distracted throughout the meal--no greeting, for example, and clunky tableside manners.