Kathleen Squires

Citysearch

The Scene – The decor of this Roman restaurant avoids the gladiator-and-toga route, thankfully, with a giant Fellini poster displaying the theme instead. Otherwise, "in vino veritas" seems to be the motto here, with a long wine bar, a Chardonnay-colored dining room and an arched, wood-slatted ceiling that resembles a row of halved vats. – – The Food – The creative Roman cuisine stands out in a city glutted with Italian fare. Try finding green and red tomato tartare or pancetta-wrapped shrimp afloat on ricotta fondue anywhere else. An overkill of salt, cheese and black…