Toloache

Contributor

Citysearch

The Scene
Decorated with terracotta tiles, tin pendant lamps and warm caramel tones, this double-decker space hosts a robust downstairs scene, punctuated by a guacamole and seviche counter, while its overlooking upper level keeps couples cozy by seating guests on adjoining (rather than facing) sides. Although the kitchen is slow at times, the staff is extremely charming and engaged, and Latin rock music suits the contemporary take on traditional eating.

The Food
Mexican-born chef-owner Julian Medina (formerly of Pampano and Zocalo) fuses street-food recipes and fine techniques into a refreshing menu. Lively guacs come in varieties ranging from spiced to fruit-brightened, seviches are balanced with just the right tartness, and small brick-oven plates let sensational flavors such a manchego cheese and truffle oil mingle. Fresh, petite tortillas showcase tender taco fillings like Negra Modelo-braised brisket, and even a seemingly conventional entree of chicken enchiladas triumphs with superb roasted, shredded meat and a dried-fig twist.

Hits: The knowledgeable staff extends considerate treatment to everyone--from business lunchers to theatergoers to toddlers.

Misses: Desserts such as churros and flan fall a bit flat.