Omido

Justin Hartung

Citysearch

The Scene
Restaurants near Times Square that don't look like tourist traps can be harder to find than front-row theater tickets, so this sushi spot scores points for it smart, sleek design. The space looks like a swank spa lobby, with wood-slatted walls alight with candles, and the good vibes keep flowing in the semi-private back room--its ceiling is covered with omikuji, fortunes written on rice paper slips.

The Food
Divided into cold and hot plates, plus a decent-sized list of sashimi and sushi, the menu offers few surprises. However, the photogenic presentations and generally consistent freshness make this an acceptable stop if you're already in the area. Warm, tender Japanese eggplant eats like dessert with a sweet miso sauce, and the Omido sashimi plate can barely hold the weight of its sea bounty, including briny mackerel and buttery amberjack. More complicated dishes, like a lobster roll overwhelmed by avocado, could use some massaging.

Hits: Among a sea of drab-looking Theater District restaurants, the sleek space sparkles.

Misses: Too many dishes don't achieve the flavor complexity their menu descriptions imply.