Dovetail
New York, NY 10024
Phone: (212) 362-3800
- Price:
- $$$$
- Cross Street:
- Columbus Avenue
- Directions:
- B, C at 81st St; 1 at 79th St
- Hours:
- Mon-Thu 5:30pm-11pm, Fri-Sun 11:30am-11pm
Editorial Review for Dovetail – by Justin Hartung
The Scene
Though this Upper West Side restaurant is located just blocks from Central Park, the design of the townhouse space is anything but lush. Instead, the overall aesthetic is subdued, with a color scheme that leans heavily on brown, beige and gray--maybe the park in winter? Gauze-covered windows, artificially lit from behind, soften what would otherwise be a claustrophobic room, and a thick carpet absorbs the already quiet conversations of the genteel crowd.
The Food
As if making up for the restrained dining room, the New American plates of chef John Fraser burst with color, starting with a kaleidoscopic "wings" appetizer composed of skate, chicken, gigante beans and orange slices. But it's the simplest dishes that taste best, including lean duck breast accompanied by velvety risotto and ultra-rare lamb sided with fluffy tabouleh. Victims of ingredient overkill include seared scallops overpowered by tart blood-orange hollandaise and, for dessert, dense bread pudding strewn with bits of bacon.
Hits: Even if his dishes don't hit the mark consistently, Fraser deserves credit for attempting to push the food envelope in a neighborhood not known for taking risks.
Misses: Drab furnishings and a cramped layout weigh down a room that should be light as a feather.
Editorial content is independent of paid advertisers. Any expenses are paid for by Citysearch.
Insider Tips
What to DrinkThe wine list is unsurprisingly expensive but offers some nice options by the glass, including a crisp, fruity Erdener Treppchen Riesling ($10).
Prix Fixe MenuOn Sunday, get a two-course menu for $38, while a six-course tasting menu is available every day for $75.
The ExtrasAfternoon tea service is from 11:30am to 3pm on Fridays and weekends, and the menu offers canapes like cucumber sandwiches with butter and watercress.
Know Before You GoThe bar area is tiny--just a few seats--so make sure your whole party is on time; otherwise you'll have to wait in the awkward foyer area.
User Reviews for Dovetail
05/04/2008 Posted by kaalel
I'm not sure what I was eating, I've never eaten that much salt before in my life. The soup, and the entree had too much salt. Additionally they tried to jam as many tables in as possible. I kept having my seat kicked in by the staff everytime they walked by. Sadly they were never around when i needed water to wash down the salt. If you're looking for a nice atmosphere, so-so service, salty food that Dovetail is the place to go.
Pros: nice ambience
Cons: poor service, too much salt in the food
04/12/2008 Posted by jjjkleats
My very good friend Fred had very hot soup poured all over him on Saturday night. It wasn't even his soup. The staff had the order wrong and to correct the confusion they mistakenly poured the bowl on Fred. Our waitress did not know any of this and asked "how is everything?" She walked away and did not clean up the mess that was left under the table dripping all over the now clean Fred. The manager tried to be helpful by saying to Fred well you did not seem mad. It was really difficult to enjoy the meal. There are many other restaurants to go to where they don't spill the soup.l. Telepan for example.
Cons: poor service, had to wait for table.
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