Bar Blanc

Kathleen Squires

Citysearch

The Scene
"White noise" is the most fitting phrase to describe the blanc-on-blanc room, where diners might feel like they are sitting in a cloud. A snowy marble bar, alabaster brick walls and chalky stone tables provide a pallid palate, with chrome lamps adding the silver lining and cocoa-colored wood bringing earthy warmth. Bring your own ear horn, however: A racket more fit for a pub resounds throughout.

The Food
Cesar Ramirez's (ex-Bouley) menu rises well above the ruckus without resorting to loud flavors. Orange zest and chutney subtly boost a jumbo scallop, and a duo of tuna--meaty confit and citrusy sashimi--comes together with ponzu, black truffle and miso undertones. Pig head terrine and cinnamon-spiked jus underscore the richness of porcelet (roasted baby pig), and four cheese ravioli with chanterelles is as an uncomplicated comfort as expected. Desserts, however, like a common bittersweet chocolate cake with salted caramel ice cream, don't have anything new to say.

Hits: One of the best amuse bouches in town: mini brioche with brie and white truffle.

Misses: That darn din, and the occasional menu misfire such as a bland ginger-roasted snapper.