Melanie Berliet

Citysearch

In Short – The hunt for quality food and hospitality stops at this brownstone space, where the well-to-do flock for cuts of cow that don't disappoint--in portion size or tenderness. The deep red walls and upholstered chairs make for sophisticated surroundings lacking only in pretension. If you don't see the attentive owner, or his son, the manager, meandering about, you'll still feel familial warmth radiating on all three levels. Dine in the main room, or in the lounge upstairs where the pianist plays smooth music at a volume not at odds with dinner conversation. Preface your entree with…