Citysearch Editorial Review. Attached to Tribeca’s Smyth Hotel, Plein Sud enters the fray as a relaxed yet smartly downtown brasserie. Doormen wear dark dress jeans and matching ties, servers crisp white Oxfords and hostesses basic backless black. Golden wood and huge floral arrangements complete the effect. Executive chef Ed Cotton first sharpened his knives in high school, cooking for Todd English. Stints with Daniel Boulud and at BLT Market mean he’s bringing decidedly classical training to typical dishes like steak au poivre and coq au vin. But there’s whimsy too, as in a dessert named Tribeca--a chocolate cake with peanut butter ganache and banana cream.
DMANBURGER “Plein Sud”-at The Smyth Hotel
May 16, 2010
Past penned Frederick Lesort opened AvroKO designed, Plein Sud recently at The Smyth Hotel in Tribeca. The Southern French fared restaurant and Bar a Vin wreaks of taste and potential, an atmosphere lavished with elegant and a simple bar high-top perches overlooking the street and comfy chic style banquette’s spread the dining room. Chef Ed Cotton’s menu headlines an array of Gallic Classics like; Coq au vin,Croque Monsieur, Charcuterie,Boeuf Bourguignon and Pâté et Terrines. Of course there’s a burger as well, and big surprise it’s a Pat La Frieda! Le Burger Royale au Fromage, or Royale with cheese is an 8 oz. Black Angus soft centre oozing of creamy white cheddar and propped on a shiny toasted brioche bun. Oh! And the piste de résistance is a slather of decadent black truffle aioli.
I comfortably sank into my banquette and watched all the Mothers on Mother’s Day soak up all the love of their families through food and conversation. Missing my own mother, I looked for more immediate solution to my emotional dilemma-a big fat Le Burger Royale! It arrived to my table looking gorgeous, towering over a small side salad and unfortunately slithered rather than slathered with the black gold-like substance. I mean I couldn’t even smell it! What did I annoy the waiter or something? I was painfully disappointed at the lack of Black Truffle aioli on my burger. Despite the lack of the truffles, the flavor was adequate, juicy and homey; my mouth salivated with every bite yearning for another and another. After reaching the epicenter of the patty there was an eruption of cheese that burst and oozed into my palette. The crispness of the bun and the buttery saltiness of the Pat La Frieda blend was decent and worth it. At $15.00, a typical price these days for an haute-burger comes with crispy thin French fries or a side salad. Tell them to be generous with the aioli which the manager pointed out later, “They will gladly do.”
Plein Sud is connected to the Thompson Hotel Group’s new venture the Smyth Hotel, they have delicious coffee and many other bistro-esque delectables. The kitchen’s opening at 6am for breakfast, on a weekend brunch menu you’ll find ” trois” le ouefs Benedict variations, and a trio of breakfast flatbreads…..”Life is like a box of chocolates” but with this one, you know what you’re gonna get!
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