Originally a cross-country expansion of Portland cult classic Pok Pok, this uncompromising Thai storefront is dedicated to pad thai. (A bigger, more ambitious Pok Pok is to be found in Brooklyn.) If you have come to think of pad thai as a bland, insipid dish -- and who could blame you given how it's made in New York -- you are in for an awakening. There are also some unpronounceable Thai dishes that are worth trying -- along with cold Thai beer.
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