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The Scene – It's modeled after the great matriarchal Mexican home kitchens of yore, though it's unlikely any home kitchen ever got this crowded. Fortunately, the efficient and cheerful servers handle throngs of hungry customers with ease, creating a mood that's as sunny as the warm, yellow decor. – – The Food – The influence of elderly female relatives also looms over the menu, as in a snail recipe that was inspired by a "Grand Aunt" and a judiciously-spiced mole poblano handed down from a grandmother. Even a nun named Brigida from "the convent of Coyoacan" gets into…