Payard

Contributor

Citysearch

The Scene
It may lack the eclat of his patisserie, but Francois Payard's adjoining bistro is just as much of a destination. Designer David Rockwell's decor exhibits belle epoque flair, with fanciful blown-glass lighting fixtures and colorful striped banquettes. Tables set with Bernardaud china and Masa linens enhance the elegance.

The Food
Chef Philippe Bertineau takes classic bistro cuisine to the next level. His celery root, chestnut and mushroom soup is velvety smooth, with duck confit adding both texture and a welcome touch of salt; twice-baked cheese souffle is as pretty as a dessert, enrobed in a silken cloak of Parmesan cream sauce and truffle oil. Entrees are equally impressive, each dish carefully accompanied by seasonal sides. The duo of pheasant arrives with Hokkaido squash, baby brussels sprouts, black trumpet mushrooms and Fuji apples; the venison has just as many co-stars, to equally impressive effect. Finish with the justly famous hot chocolate souffle.