Reviews & Ratings for The Shoreham - New York Hotels

01/20/06

A modular midtown hotel lounge serving a sophisticated menu.

by Karen Hudes

The Scene
The chilly palette of blue glass walls and lime green seating at the Shoreham's redesigned restaurant seems more fitting for loungers than eaters--as do the low tables, which become awkward at meals. But many of the patrons, a mix of older hotel guests and younger after-work pals, come more for the cocktails and lounge vibe than a full meal.

The Food
The eclectic New American cooking is more accomplished than the ambience would suggest. Appetizers such as the gratin of lobster with smoked cheddar, and fried artichokes with mascarpone mousse have a luxuriant feel; lentil soup made with caramelized apple reveals a mellow sweetness that works. Some vibrancy is lost in the entrees, among them a tender yet unexciting chimichurri hanger steak, and bay scallops tinged by capers. Organic chicken, striped bass and a Kobe beef burger round out the menu, as well as a crisp-coated, flavorful duck breast complemented by port wine sauce.