Absinthe Makes the Heart Grow Fonder
By Rebecca Behan, New York
Now that absinthe has returned after a near century-long ban, it’s time to play catch-up. Distilled from such herbs as anise and wormwood, the super-strength liquor is named after the Greek word for “undrinkable,” but a visit to these bars will remedy that misconception. No, you won’t hallucinate, but it will keep you going all night--right up until you pass out.
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Barbes
376 9th St, Brooklyn, NY
Evoking French egalitarian pride, this Park Slope cocktail den serves Lucid-brand absinthe in a simple, tall glass--no special absinthe glassware here. The bartenders pour it straight with a half carafe of water on the side. As the two mingle, the liquid clouds into a milky white (an action called the louche). Absinthe is a sipping beverage, so take the time to let your palate adjust to its strength and sharp licorice tang. -
Employees Only
510 Hudson St, New York, NY
To further your absinthe education under professional guidance, snag a bar stool at Employee’s Only. Here, the fine accoutrements of the drink await--along with a choice of brands to taste. Your bartender may quote Van Gogh as he tops your glass with a flaming sugar cube and streams water for the louche. If you’re still able to cling to the barstool, sample a cocktail featuring the house-made absinthe bitters. -
Tailor
525 Broome St, New York, NY
For a dose of the mystery that surrounds absinthe’s reputation, head over to Tailor, where such questions as “Do you serve absinthe?” are met with a “Who wants to know?” Nevertheless, the bartenders will mix you an absinthe concoction of their choosing, though if egg whites and heavy cream--ingredients in some offerings--aren't your thing, you'll want to subtly guide your cocktail’s ingredients. -
PDT
113 Saint Marks Pl, New York, NY
For classic absinthe-based cocktails sneak into PDT, an adjunct to Crif Dogs in the East Village. If you're lucky, the owner Jim will start you off with the aperitif Corpse Reviver 2, which arrives in a frosted glass rinsed with absinthe. For something heavier, ask for a Chrysanthemum or a Sazerac, a drink that emerged in the late 1800s in New Orleans--the French quarter, of course.
